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At the beginning of my pilgrimage I have already visited Shinran, now
it is time to meet Shinran's teacher, Honen (1133-1212), the founder of
Jodo Buddhism. The head temple of Jodo Buddhism is Chionin, a huge pile
with a gate even larger than the one of Higashi Honganji. The temple is
also famous for its large bell, which is struck by a whole team of priests
for the ritual 108 ringings at year-end. But Chionin is too big, too formal
for me to feel close to Honen. On a blistering summer afternoon I therefore
visit a small temple named after him, Honenin.Honenin lies in Shishigatani,
east of the Philosopher' s Path which runs along a small stream from Ginkakuji
to Nanzenji and skirts along the foot of the Higashiyama range. It is
so called because the philosopher Dr. Nishida Kitaro, who taught at nearby
Kyoto University, often used to walk here. A wooded lane leads away from
the city to the peacefulness of the temple.Under the trees, it is immediately
much cooler. I pass a bamboo ticket, which has occasional giant camellias
and enter via the characteristic thatched gate, symbolic of the rustic
quietness here. After all, less than a hundred years ago, this area was
countryside. Honenin used to be a small, rural temple.
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